Back From My Trip – Europe Part Four – Tallinn

After the beauty of Gamla Stan, I was hoping that my next destination would be even more enticing. After all, I had read that the Old Town where I was heading was the most intact medieval walled city in Northern Europe. And nothing makes me feel more like I’m somewhere completely different than a walled city!

The flight from Stockholm was in a small dual propeller plane. Somehow I was assigned an exit row seat, but that really didn’t make a difference in the amount of leg room. On the way over, we flew over the Baltic Sea and the myriad of small islands that dot the water. It was that time of day when the light makes the water look like glass. Finally, we were over land – over Estonia – my next destination.

The Estonian Airways flight landed on time at Tallinn International. We had to disembark from the plane down a small flight of stairs and be bussed to the terminal. I found my way to the municipal bus stop to wait for the ride into town. After a long 20 minutes, the bus finally pulled up. I paid my 1,60 Euros, got on, and tried to keep my balance as we drove into Tallinn. The hostel directions said to get off at A. Laikmaa shopping center, a gleaming and hyper-modern shopping complex. It did not look like there was an Old Town in sight. Hmmm, I trusted the directions but there was no signage to show which direction Old Town might even be. Fortunately, I spotted a city map on the back wall of a bus shelter and it appeared that I needed to get around the shopping complex to find my hostel. I set off towards the nearest cross street and hoped I was right.

I was… As I turned the corner, I could see the Viru Gates that led into Old Town. Lining the street to the gates was a beautiful, and very crowded, flower market. I breathed in deeply the scent of all those flowers and passed the Viru Gates. My hostel, Viru Backpackers, is located on Viru Street, behind an iron gate and up a flight of stairs. When I reached the top, the receptionist was waiting for me with a big smile. She was so friendly and welcoming. The hostel is small, taking up just one floor of the old building The hostel also asks that you remove your shoes at the front door so it was also very quiet, despite the hardwood floors. My room, a single, was right by the front desk and directly across from the showers and WCs.

After getting settled in, I took off to explore the Old Town. Dusk had already fallen and stepping into Old Town Tallinn was like stepping onto a movie set. I can’t explain how beautiful the medieval buildings and tall towers looked all lit up. It was gorgeous. I am so happy that my first impression of Old Town Tallinn was so magical. I spent hours just wandering, no idea where I was going but confident enough that the area was small enough that I would eventually find my way back to the hostel. At times like that, that’s when I love travel. It takes me to some place so outside of myself that all I can do is keep up with all of the sensory overload coming in – the visual, audio, even the smells from the cafes and small restaurants…

After midnight, I finally made my way back to the hostel to get some sleep. The next day dawned cool and misty. I was thankful I had found a packable rain jacket before I left on this adventure. I had to exchange some money for Euros and then hit the grocery store for some snacks for my day pack. I was actually a little surprised at how large the market right outside of Old Town was. Even though I’m used to large U.S. style grocery stores, I hadn’t seen a market this large since I arrived in Europe. I was slightly overwhelmed with the selection, even if I was underwhelmed by the croissant I got.

Camera in hand, I set out to explore all of the small passages and cobblestoned streets. I retraced a lot of my steps from the night before, to see what the buildings looked like in the daylight. I spent lots of time reading all of the historical plaques on the walls, telling me when the building was originally built, what renovations had uncovered, etc. It was amazing to me to be standing next to whole blocks of buildings that were constructed in the 1400s. I clambered up onto the overlooks to view the town from a birds’ eye view. I went outside the walls to view the towers the way a visitor approaching town in the medievals would see. It was one of those place were you really get a sense of history.

I took another free walking tour. The guide was a young Estonian woman who probably grew up listening to stories of what life was like under the Soviets, even if she was too young to remember those times herself. And as always, I loved hearing the stories behind some of the streets and architecture. I think I like my process of seeing all I can see first and then getting the explanation behind the scenes after. I can really study the details that way. After an hour and a half, the tour was over. I set out walking aimlessly again, thinking I was going to get dinner, but somehow never actually stopping for anything. About mid-evening, the drizzle turned into full on rain and I retreated to the hostel. I had covered every inch of Old Town and felt satisfied there wasn’t any street, alleyway, or passage that I didn’t walk.

That night, I slept well. But leaving the window wide open during the rain meant that the bugs found shelter in my room as well. I woke with a large mosquito bite on my cheek! Oh well, the perils of traveling. And it isn’t a trip for me until I get a large welt from some kind of insect bite. I got up, showered, repacked, and got myself ready to walk in the rain to the bus stop to take me back to the airport. After an amazing time in Tallinn, I was on my way to the next stage in my adventure…